A timber connector is a ring with sharp spikes around it facing in opposite directions. The spikes bite into both pieces of timber to prevent movement. This is a good option for when you need to connect joists underneath a deck or a floor, where they won’t be visible. The end product will look like 1 long offset joist, since they are not joined end to end, but rather side by side.
For example, if you’re connecting 2 2 in (5. 1 cm) thick beams to a 5 in (13 cm) by 5 in (13 cm) post, use a beam bracket that is 4 in (10 cm) wide on 1 side and 5 in (13 cm) wide on the other. This is a good choice when you just want to use commercial hardware and not do any extra measuring or cutting. The end result of this is a post with a metal bracket on top of it holding the beams in place in the center of the top of the post.
For example, if you’re using 6 in (15 cm) by 6 in (15 cm) beams, make a notch that’s 6 in (15 cm) tall and 3 in (7. 6 cm) deep. This is a good option when you don’t have any commercial hardware available or you want the beams to be at exactly the same height as the post. The end result of this is that the beams sit flush with the side and the top of the post. Never just bolt beams to the side of a post without cutting a notch into it because the downward pressure of any weight on top can cause them to shear off.
There are many ways to cut mortises and tenons with hand tools and/or power tools. For example, you can use a router with an up spiral bit to cut the mortise, or cavity, and a table saw and a jig to cut the tenon, or peg. This is a good joint to use when it will be visible because it is very attractive and there is no exposed hardware. You can use a mortise and tenon joint to join timber together end to end or at 90 degrees. This joint appears as if the pieces of timber are just butted up against each other.
This is a good option when you have 2 lengths of timber that you want to join into an almost seamless single length of timber, since the joint isn’t very noticeable. This joint looks like you just have 1 piece of timber since they are joined flushly. It’s up to you how long to make the notches in the ends of the timber. However, the more you overlap the 2 pieces of timber, the stronger the half lap joint is. You could also put a bolt through the 2 pieces of timber where they are joined together for added strength, which would be a good idea if you’re making a beam that will support a lot of weight. There are other types of joints for joining timber end to end, but they aren’t as strong as lap joints. This means they’re better suited to other woodworking projects and aren’t ideal for beams.
Miter joints are better for joining structural timber, such as beams, together than just butting the end of 1 piece flat up against the end of the other, which isn’t a very strong joint. This is a good joint to use when you want a neat and strong 90-degree connection that is easier to make than something like a mortise and tenon joint. This joint looks like the corners of a wooden picture frame.
